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Cactusgem’s Tips for Death Valley

The name "Death Valley" just sounds ominous if you are prepared

Do not leave this page without reading More About Water.

Desert Terrain:

Don’t think for a moment that Death Valley is all sand. Sand makes up only about 12% of the terrain. Other varieties of terrain are gravel, cobble, talus, salt pinnacles, salt blisters, marsh, mud and combinations. Desert only means aridity and a lack of substantial vegetation. The weather and seasons seem to be three. Comfortable, tolerable, and unbearable. The first season running from the first of October and last till the middle of April for some but for me it is March. Temperatures will run from 40 degrees to over 100 degrees. The tolerable season runs right before and right after the Comfortable season. The middle of April to June and the middle of September to October. The unbearable season is June to September with air temperatures from 110 degrees to 125 degrees and higher. There can also be horrid flash floods that are hazardous in the mountains and highway closures in the valley during this time. This is a good time to go some where's else. The Park Service in Death Valley usually makes every effort to discourage Summer hiking. If you still insist in a Summer hike the Park Service will have to take in account your mental stability. So be warned!

Basic Clothing:

A wide variety of types and weights of clothing that is comfortable to you and can be used in a variety of hiking and backpacking weather situations is best to wear and bring. When I backpack I take as little as possible preferring a lighter pack and bring several layers. I always have rain gear and warm coat available. A light colored hat with a brim, sunglasses, with a glass cleaning kit and cotton scarf are very important too. Know what elevations you will be hiking at and get an up-to-date weather forecast before starting out.

Foot Wear:

I have found the most critical items are footwear in the desert. There is such a difference in terrain one encounters and please be sure to include water. I use two pairs of socks. One thin white sock and a boot sock. I like the wicking socks found in sporting, skiing, and backpacking stores best. You may pay a little more for them but they are worth the money if you’ve ever gotten a blister while out. Having both socks white in color is good for prevention to irritation or possible infection should you get a blister. If there is a fear of ticks the white is a good color too help spot them. Make sure you take your favorite 2 pair of socks with you when shopping for boots. You may need to get a ½ size larger. Boots are your preference and checkbook. Some folks swear by composition rather than Vibram just make sure the tops are as soft as possible, but sturdy and heavily waxed to withstand abrasion. I prefer waterproof boots too. It is worth the extra money to me. Six-inch tops are good for support and protection. The inner shoe should be padded and/or insulated with ventilation. Laces can be cloth or leather but be sure and bring a spare. I also carry some light tennis shoes for camp and bed time. It gives your feet a break. Of course you have to take in account where you are camping too. Make sure you take mole skin with you. Moleskin has helped turn a trip around for me. I also bring nail clippers. You won’t know for sure your toe nails need clipping until you start downhill. The best medicine for the feet is prevention. Stop at least every two hours for a pack rest and remove your shoes and socks so your feet can breathe and change your socks often or at least the inner socks. I take clean socks for each day if I know I’ll be where I can’t wash them. I’ll take socks before extra any other type of clothing.

Pack, Sleeping Bag, And Other Important Stuff:

Weight still remains one of the top considerations rather hiking in the desert or mountains in regards to backpack frames and containers. One big exception is you will need to carry all your water with you and your heat. I love my little backpackers stove and the light water tight plastic bottles are best for the water. You can leave your water filter home. There probably won’t be any water to filter. You will need a minimum of two quarts of water for each ten miles you plan to travel. You can also cache water along the way. Just be sure and mark your map well where you leave it and make sure it is out of the way of others. So think of that when you drool over all the new freeze dried hiking foods. Because of the desert winds forget a tent. Also you would never get the tent stakes in the ground or they wouldn’t stay when you did. Take a space blanket that is cheap and very light to carry. Look for rocky areas to sleep in or sleep in groups for protection. Hopefully you will have a beautiful clear night. I like my air mattress too. The new ones are so great and so easy to fill. Don’t be thinking for a moment that desert is all sand. Everywhere you put your sleeping bag you will find rocks under it please believe me.

Backcountry Behavior:

The desert is not a coarse place nor is it expansive, desolate and lifeless. An attitude of this promotes carelessness rather intentionally or unintentionally. Death Valley is neither desolate nor lifeless. It is delicate and very fragile. It abounds with a variety of wildlife and wildflowers some of which are common only to Death Valley and we want to preserve them. So please follow some simple behavior rules.

                        1 - What you take in, take out.

                        2 - Don’t hike or drive off of established roads and trails.

                        3 - Leave the natural and man made historical sites alone.

                        4 - Take plenty of water for yourself, passengers and vehicle.

Day Hikes:

Although the day hike is less complex than a full backpacking trip you still need to observe similar precautions and have an adequate supply of water on your person and, if planning to be away a good portion of the day, carry along some quick energy foods such as candy, dried fruits, grain products or vegetables. Nuts, cheese and raisins will provide "staying power" for the day if ingested early in the trip. Take into consideration the time of year, and what temperatures might be expected. Check in with the Park Rangers if you are not sure of the situation. Be sure to always tell someone where you re going and when you expect to return in the event of some mishap. Some suggested day hikes are:

Day Hike: Miles: Elevation: Topo Map: Remarks:
Artist's Drive 10 2400 Furnace Creek Water Risk
Big Pine Road 5 2520 Ubehebe Crater  
Desolation Canyon 4 400 Furnace Creek Water Risk
Little Hebe Crater 1 2800 Ubehebe Crater  
Moving Rocks 1 3700 Ubehebe Peak Water Risk
Titus Canyon 11 3120 Grapevine Peak Water Risk
Ryolite Ghost Town     Directions on preceeding page  

Day Hike Descriptions: 

Artist's Drive - The entrance road to the Drive is 10.2 miles south of Furnace Creek Ranch. Plan on using up an entire day walking through this colorful maze of washes, cuts, and canyons. The 10 miles round trip indicated above is quite conservative and includes only the hike along the road be sure and add another 5 miles for side trips and a trek that will be unforgettable. Don't forget at least 2 quarts water per person.

Big Pine Road - Big Pine Road is located in the northern extreme of the Valley and was once a popular Jeep road entrance to the Monument.  The boundary marker is five miles to the north of the road to Ubehebe Crater. The first five miles to the 4 x 4 post marking the boundary on the west side of the road may be reached by passenger car. Bring along water, a snack, and camera and take this easy stroll downhill some 445 feet. Sites to see are the Creosote Bush Desert, Last Chance Range to your west, the ancient Lake   Rogers - now a salt flat.

Desolation Valley - Depending on the your inquisitiveness, this hike can vary from four to eight miles round trip. The entrance to Desolation Canyon is 5.3 miles south of Furnace Creek Ranch off the Badwater Highway. This canyon was the sight of the first Death Valley 49er Encampment in 1949. The dirt road there is generally smooth enough for most passenger cars, but keep a lookout for high crowns and sand traps. The best view2ing of this area is done on foot, so your vehicle can be left off the pavement near the entrance sigh. Start this trip early morning in the warmer weather. How much water will you need?

Little Hebe Crater - Drive to the Ubehebe Crater parking lot just 7.5 miles north of Mesquite Springs Campgrounds. From Stove Pipe Wells Village, this drive would be 46 miles. Ubehebe Crater is one-half mile across and about 500 feet deep at the center. Just south of the parking area, a faint trail (should be a sign) across the cinder and gravel edge of the Crater will lead you up to Little Hebe Crater. The trail is almost all uphill with an elevation gain of 200' and is moderate to strenuous. It is also frustrating as you lose one step for every three taken due to the instability of the gravel trail. If you do this hike in the early morning the sun will be to your back and lighting up Little Hebe for great photo shots. The reddish plants around this area are Rixford Eriogonum. I only know that because I read it in a book. After using up all your film and you will want to . . . head further south along the ridge and cross the next rise. There is a large wash and gives the same affect as the Grand Canyon in the early morning light. Do not stand too close to any of the edges as they are very crumbly and unstable.

Come back for more later.

There are many more day hikes worth your time too and in fact ones you would enjoy more than these. Check them                  out too.

Ashford Canyon 9 miles Water Risk
Badwater Basin 4 Water Risk
Borax Haystacks 5 Water Risk
Death Valley Buttes - - Water Risk
Goblin Wash 3 Water Risk
Grotto Canyon 8 Water Risk
Hole In The Rock Spring .5  
Keane Wonder Mill 12  
Kit Fox Canyon 4 Water Risk
Midway Well Site .5  
Monarch Canyon 7 Water Risk
Salt Creek Exploratory 9 Water Risk
Sand Dunes 4 Water Risk
Triangle/Palm Springs .5  

More about water later

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02/23/98

February 23, 1999

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